A Journey Into Thailand’s Separatist South, Part Four: Escaping Thailand’s Violent Separatist South

Hat Yai is what Sungai Kolok wants to be: an actual den of sin and iniquity. It oozes sex, which runs along its gutters like gunk, clogging them in the rain. The latter hasn’t stopped yet, and won’t before I leave, an hour or two from now. For the first time since leaving Kuala Lumpur, I find myself surrounded by westerners again, most of them older, very few of them reputable. There is the sense of a homecoming—and also that of an ending.

Hat Yai has not been immune to the Islamist-nationalist struggle that has rocked southern Thailand, gently but efficiently, like a mother with swaddling child, since 2004. In 2006, six bombs went off here, killing at least four, including a Canadian citizen, and wounding dozens more. In 2014, it happened again, three IEDs going off within minutes of one another, wounding around eight.

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But generally speaking, Hat Yai feels different. Although it has none of the physical beauty of Pattani, it nevertheless feels safer. It feels like Thailand again. And though Thailand has been a military dictatorship since 2014, and while military dictatorships shouldn’t really be considered tourist hot-spots—I mean, we should probably start checking ourselves a bit more on that front—Hat Yai does feel, not like somewhere you want to be, but rather like somewhere you’re happier to be. Beer runs along the gutters with the sex.

Read the full article at The Daily Beast.