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Madrid, riot cops, rubber bullets… ‘This is the new normal’

Madrid is no Athens. Athens wears its economic crisis on its sleeves, on its walls, its shuttered shop fronts. Madrid’s is not so readily apparent: it is there, but you have to go looking for it, taking notice of the

Incidental cargo on the Black Sea

Ilyichevsk is not a glamorous place. Twenty kilometres south of Odessa, on the coast of the Black Sea, it is a complex of cranes and concrete wharves, shipping containers and semi-trailers. A line of the latter, a kilometre long, waits

‘Delaying the inevitable’ in Greece, cake notwithstanding

The best, saddest little taverna in Athens is on Astiggos Street, on the far side of the Monastiraki Flea Market. It is called Kallipateira and it is owned by a married couple, Yiannis and Maria, who run front of house

Waiting On the Arriaga-Ixtepec

After about three days in Arriaga – where we will eventually spend a week – one feels inclined to paraphrase the famous opening narration from Casablanca: “And so a tortuous, roundabout refugee trail sprang up: Guatemala City to Tecún Umán,

Deportation would be a blessing for Athens’ debt-hit immigrants

Ibrahim Sall has three euros to his name. The Mauritanian street vendor, selling knock-off handbags on the streets of Athens’ Plaka tourist district, actually laughs as he reaches into his pocket to show me the coins. “Three euros!” he says. “Three

Athens not quite the centre of the world, but it did suck us in

I am not sure I would agree with Business Insider’s Joe Weisenthal that Athens was the centre of the world on Sunday night. Or, to be more specific, that the international media centre in room 16 of Athens’ Zappeion Conference and

‘Criminality, drugs, poverty’: new government won’t solve Greek crisis

A is for Athens and A is for anarchy and thus Athens is covered with anarchist As. They are everywhere, scrawled always in black, on newspaper kiosks and across ATM screens, on abandoned shop fronts (of which there are hundreds)

On the great ice road

Those crazy Russians. We have just overtaken a fishing boat on Lake Baikal in eastern Siberia and are now heading at a clip across its surface in the direction of its largest island. We are not in a boat but