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Beauties of the beast

“You’re going to be cooking how much meat?” My vegetarian housemate stares at me incredulously over a bowl of soggy millet. “A lot,” I say. “Most nights for the next week.” She sinks back sullenly into her chair and tries

Raising the bar

When it came to dieting under the influence, British author Kingsley Amis had some sage advice. “The first, indeed the only, requirement of a diet,” he wrote, “is that it should lose you weight without reducing your alcoholic intake by

Old Kingdom

An extensive wine list poses its own set of challenges, but B.Y.O., with the freedom of choice those three little letters imply, is practically impossible. Or at least it is when the food on the menu doesn’t impose certain restrictions

Mirka at Tolarno Hotel

I was going to open this review with a few words about Mirka Mora, the artist whose whimsical cherubs and mythological creatures adorn the walls of the restaurant bearing her name, but given the extent to which she and her

Laksa Me

I have a friend, a former workmate who makes it his business to visit every Asian restaurant in Melbourne, who is forever lamenting what he perceives to be the city’s paucity of good Thai restaurants. Melbourne’s Thai food, my friend

The Press Club

“Food is family, family is life, life is everything.” – George Calombaris I had been excited about visiting The Press Club before I saw George Calombaris cook prosciutto-wrapped gorgonzola cannelloni on Ready, Steady Cook, that wonderful daytime cooking show hosted

Enoteca Sileno

Enoteca Sileno was not what I had expected; I had, for some reason, expected less. (The moral of the story is to do your research.) Some decent bread and a hearty pork sausage risotto. An antipasto platter and a bowl

Tempura Hajime

I didn’t have any trouble getting a booking at Tempura Hajime, though I very nearly could have done. The morning after we made our booking, John Lethlean’s review appeared in The Age and, with all the force of a small