Matthew Clayfield is a journalist, critic and screenwriter.


Barbarians at the Gates: A Postcard from Erbil

The car bomb sounded like a car backfiring. I heard it, dismissed it, and went back to sleep. It was only a few hours later, as I sat at the window of Erbil’s Hotel Merci, […]

Jan, 12 · in Iraq,Journalism,Travel,War
chapo2 copy

Notes from el norte: Narco tours, drug lords and the approach to the US border

A fleet of small, white, open-air buggies take in the sea air at the edge of the docks, their drivers nonchalant, clouded in cigarette smoke, loitering in wait for an easy fare. I spent the […]

Jan, 07 · in Journalism,Mexico,Travel

Eating and drinking beyond the strip

The best way to see Surfers Paradise is from twenty kilometres away. From Currumbin, where I have been living for the past two months, one can take in the beauty of Sin City’s saw-toothed skyline […]

Dec, 30

Remembering Christopher Hitchens

The last e-mail exchange I ever had with Christopher Hitchens was not, on the face of it, all that different from the others. I had sent him a link to a news story about an […]

Dec, 16

Tijuana tourism rebounds as cartel violence subsides

“You know you’re in Tijuana when someone offers you a gram of cocaine for ten dollars.” The Australian tourist laughed and shook his head at the memory of the encounter, as though such things weren’t […]

Dec, 12

Bus etiquette in changing Turkey

It was the height of Ramadan, that wonderful, languid, celebratory month that so consumes the Middle East. And in Konya, Turkey, that had its repercussions. I had come up against some of these already. Lunch […]

Nov, 29

A voyage of nostalgia from Saint Helena to Cape Town

From our ship, the island of Saint Helena in the south Atlantic Ocean is imposing, its cliffs high and sheer, the wave-buffeted rocks at their base sharp and craggy. The capital, Jamestown, where we have […]

Nov, 15

While I am lucky enough to get paid for my work, independent foreign correspondence remains very expensive to produce. Please consider donating a few dollars to help me with my upcoming projects.
  • RT @sturdyAlex: BREAKING: Coalition announced, as expected, between SYRIZA and ANEL (Independents with 13 MPs, giving a majority of 162).
  • Greece election: Syriza forms coalition with Independent Greeks.
  • RT @AthensAntiques: we have a new government announces on greek TV Kamenos leader of independent greeks ...