Bullfighting without matadors in northern Spain

Bullfighting , Journalism , Spain , Travel Mar 15, 2014 No Comments

Angus “The Scottish Rocket” Ritchie is giving me advice. “If I’m behind you when you look back, that’s good. If you see me ahead of you, that’s very bad.”

We are standing on Calle Madrid in Ciudad Rodrigo, looking down towards the town’s makeshift bullring, where a capea, or amateur bullfight, has just ended.

These are not the most refined affairs. But then people who come to Ciudad Rodrigo don’t exactly come for art. They don’t come to contemplate death, as García Lorca might have had it. They come to play with death, to tempt it.

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One of its oldest elements is the encierro, which translates literally as the corralling of bulls, though we know it better as the running of them. My first desencierro—a bull run leading the animals away from the bullring at the conclusion of a capea—is about to begin.

Read the full article in The Saturday Paper.

Matthew Clayfield

Matthew Clayfield is a journalist, critic and screenwriter.

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