The road to Pripyat, Chernobyl’s long-abandoned city, runs through a budding forest.
The pines here are all relatively young; the original forest died from radiation poisoning more than a quarter-century ago. You may be able to decontaminate city streets to the extent they are safe for foreign tourists to visit, but you can’t decontaminate the soil of a forest floor.
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Even now, as our bus passes a sign welcoming us to the city, the beeping of the Geiger counters on board increases dramatically — sounding first like a heart-rate monitor attached to a quickening muscle, soon more like the incessant chirping of a cricket. The Geiger counters show readings of up to 14.59 microsieverts per hour — that’s well below the lethal limit but more than 10 times any reading the devices have taken since we got here. And these readings are being taken from inside the bus.
Matthew Clayfield
Matthew Clayfield is a journalist, critic and screenwriter.
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