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The sun sets on the RMS St Helena

It’s the end, as they say, of an era. Or at least it was meant to be. On Saturday last week, the RMS St Helena departed the South Atlantic island that gives it its name for what was supposed to

From Jamestown to Mount Martha

You can see it from the Mule Yard, the only bar in Jamestown, Saint Helena, that happens to be open every day. It’s more prominent at low tide than high, a steering column jutting out of the water like the

Island destinations where your heart and stomach sink

As they said of Rick’s in Casablanca, everybody comes to the Obsidian. And, as at Rick’s, they run the gamut: German climatologists, Italian game fishermen, Australian teachers who work on the Falklands, Belgian authors, Scottish contract painters, Canadian filmmakers and

A voyage of nostalgia from Saint Helena to Cape Town

From our ship, the island of Saint Helena in the south Atlantic Ocean is imposing, its cliffs high and sheer, the wave-buffeted rocks at their base sharp and craggy. The capital, Jamestown, where we have just spent the better part

Remembering Napoleon in the South Atlantic

It is a cool, moist morning and a hotchpotch of formally attired officials in sashes and curious tourists in T-shirts and thongs are making their way past a bilingual sign down a grassy, gradual incline to the grave. A small

Downloading ‘Game of Thrones’ at the edge of the world

It takes a good long while to download anything on St Helena. A good long while and a pretty penny. A half hour of foot-dragging wi-fi at any one of the handful of hot spots in Jamestown, the island’s capital,

Life on Ascension Island

The German climatologist had a theory. “Everyone comes to Ascension Island for strategic reasons,” he said. “The American air force is here because of the island’s location between South America and Africa. The RAF is here because it allows them