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Follow Friday: @NataliaAntonova on the horror of watching the world collapse

Natalia Antonova (@NataliaAntonova) is having a rough time of it. For most of this year, the Ukrainian-born, US-raised, ethnically Russian journalist and playwright has expected the worst and then been granted it. Crimea. East Ukraine. MH17. While Western correspondents condemn

Incidental cargo on the Black Sea

Ilyichevsk is not a glamorous place. Twenty kilometres south of Odessa, on the coast of the Black Sea, it is a complex of cranes and concrete wharves, shipping containers and semi-trailers. A line of the latter, a kilometre long, waits

Letter from Kharkiv, where Ukraine’s EU bid comes to die

One descends the steps of Kharkiv’s train station to a Soviet-era square with post-Soviet pretensions. Ukraine’s azure-and-yellow is teaming with Poland’s red-and-white next month, in what was originally seen as a boon to the former’s EU prospects, to co-host the

In Ukraine, it’s a case of here comes the bribe

I hadn’t been in Ukraine for 10 minutes before I was forced to bribe its officials. “You don’t have the necessary paperwork,” the border guard said. This was a lie and we both knew it, but we also both knew

Disaster Tourism: My Day In Nuclear Ruins

The road to Pripyat, Chernobyl’s long-abandoned city, runs through a budding forest. The pines here are all relatively young; the original forest died from radiation poisoning more than a quarter-century ago. You may be able to decontaminate city streets to