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Going off-road in Mexico’s Baja 1000

It’s probably the first time the waiter in Ensenada has heard these two words, but he takes them in his stride: “Ta, cobber.” In turn, Chris Western takes to the largest steak on the menu—he double-checked to make sure—with gusto.

Maintaining the rage four months on from Iguala

Four months ago yesterday, in the Mexican state of Guerrero, forty-three students from the Raúl Isidro Burgos Rural Teachers’ College of Ayotzinapa were forcibly disappeared in the town of Iguala while travelling to a protest against discriminatory hiring and funding

Notes from el norte: Narco tours, drug lords and the approach to the US border

A fleet of small, white, open-air buggies take in the sea air at the edge of the docks, their drivers nonchalant, clouded in cigarette smoke, loitering in wait for an easy fare. I spent the night on the deck of

Tijuana tourism rebounds as cartel violence subsides

“You know you’re in Tijuana when someone offers you a gram of cocaine for ten dollars.” The Australian tourist laughed and shook his head at the memory of the encounter, as though such things weren’t at all his reason for

Follow Friday: @bloggingsbyboz, who has both eyes on Latin America

It has already been an eventful year for a Western media dazzled by the Sturm und Drang of protest and revolution. In the first few months of 2014, it has occasionally paid to have monocular vision: protest-watchers have needed one

Waiting On the Arriaga-Ixtepec

After about three days in Arriaga – where we will eventually spend a week – one feels inclined to paraphrase the famous opening narration from Casablanca: “And so a tortuous, roundabout refugee trail sprang up: Guatemala City to Tecún Umán,

Five bloody years as journalists, and freedom of speech, die

Five years ago last month, on Vladimir Putin’s birthday, Anna Politkovskaya was gunned down in the lift of her Moscow apartment building. The Novaya gazeta journalist, who had written at length about Putin’s brutal and brutalising campaign in the northern Caucasus, was

Blood on the Mexican border squeezed by opportunistic GOP

Rick Perry has a knack for making comments that cause large swathes of the electorate to wince. But it takes real talent to make comments that cause large swathes of another country’s to wince, too. That’s precisely what the Texas