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The politics of prayer in Kosovo

In the rectory of Kosovo’s Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa, a few days ahead of the consecration ceremony in September, Father Lush Gjergji can hardly contain his excitement. Casually clad in shirtsleeves and clerical collar, the diminutive but ebullient priest

Reporting the truth gets you sucker punched in Kosovo

Parim Olluri’s assailants arrived first. The CCTV footage shows only their backs as they stroll past the camera and on up the street. There are three of them and they’re all wearing hoods. Olluri’s fiancée, Genta, appears next. She stops,

Sicily’s tide of misery

It’s early evening in Catania, Sicily, and the central station is once again thronged with African asylum seekers. Every night they come here—their meagre possessions in tow, seagulls wheeling madly overhead—to catch buses and trains to other parts of Italy,

Revellers dance, march and sing through the tear gas at Sicilian anti-G7, anti-Trump protest

The party ended the way these things tend to: with the police rocking up and telling everyone to go home. Of course, the police were at the anti-G7 march in Giardini Naxos, Sicily, before the party had even begun, and

On the eve of the G7, protesters and security forces square off under an uneasy Sicilian sun

At first glance, Giardini Naxos, Sicily, doesn’t appear to be on the brink of anti-globalist chaos. Families gallivant on the beach. Men with torsos the colour of burnt umber play volleyball nearby. Tourists debate the relative merits of dinner and

On Margate sands: Farage, Dreamland, and the UKIP-ification of the Tories

I am standing in a Victorian-era promenade shelter in Margate, a two-hour train ride from London in the district of Thanet in north-eastern Kent, looking out over the grey-green water, hugging my winter coat around me, and trying to imagine